You’re in a bit of trouble at Firedoor if you don’t like a hint (or a whack) of smokiness in your food. In the electricity-less kitchen, everything is cooked on fire, and the taste is distinct. One of the hot openings of 2015, in the early days it was near impossible to score a table, and we’re glad we finally get to road test it and see if it is worthy of its one hat. Our friendly waitress gives us the menus and suggests an appropriate number of dishes to order between four – the menu is designed to share – and leaves us to ponder.
We start off with some bread. Big, thick slabs of bread with butter. Sprinkled on top of the butter is smoked salt – the smoke journey begins – and I love it. They should sell jars of that salt. The bread also comes in handy for mopping up some of the lovely sauces and juices that come with subsequent dishes.
The first handful of dishes arrive quickly, almost too quickly, and the table gets crowded.
A simple dish of asparagus comes with a delicious accompaniment of mussel sauce
It’s followed by one of the table favourites, these little school prawns, done with a nice hint of chilli and garlic shoots. Loved this dish and would gladly have it again
The ricotta is pretty to look at and yes, the smoke is there, but I think I’d rather have my regular serve of Paesanella.
We move onto the strawberry clams. It’s a pretty small serve for $48, and I also find them a little overcooked and chewy
The squid with ink and macadamia doesn’t blow me away either, but the celery is refreshing
We’re back on track with this whiting with some chargrilled zucchini. Beautifully cooked, juicy fish with delicate vegetables.
So too does the Jurassic quail get a big tick, served with toasted spelt with caper raisin.
We have to wait a very long time for the lamb, and the waitress is apologetic, but it turns out to be worth the wait. This photo is of a half eaten dish, oops. Like the whiting, it is expertly cooked and a definite crowd pleaser.
But the one thing about Firedoor is that you will get sticker shock, the bill does add up very quickly, especially when drinks come into the equation. Steer clear of the steak – the 500g wagyu rib comes in at $89 and the 500g dray aged rib at $139. Now given how well they cooked our other meat dishes, I’m sure that these would be nicely done, but the prices seem a little excessive, even though they are designed to share. The chef’s menu $85 banquet may be the best way to go.
Firedoor, 1a/23-33 Mary St, Surry Hills, Ph (02) 8204 0800