Tag Archives: One Hat

LP’s Quality Meats, Chippendale

As many of you will know, we have a resident vegacaquarian in the Napoli household.  This has meant a largely vegetarian diet for the family, with seafood every now and again.   Regardless, the (Not So) Small People are die hard carnivores, and would happily demolish a steak every night of the week if it was presented to them.  So when their birthday rolls around, and a special family dinner out is called for, the request is always for a steak restaurant. “Would you like to try somewhere new or somewhere we’ve been before?” I ask, when the big day is approaching.  “Somewhere new” they say.  So here we are at LP’s which I’ve been keen to try since it opened in 2014. It’s consistently scored a hat in the Good Food Guide Awards.

There’s plenty of wood going on, between the communal tables, the tables, and the long bar, next to which a giant ham is being carved.  There’s a definite saloon vibe, and a cowboy hat or two would not go amiss. We are warmly welcomed and the staff all night are lovely.

I start with the chicken liver pate and it’s a winner. Great texture and flavour. I didn’t appreciate pate till I was an adult, and I encourage the Small People to try some. They don’t mind it. It’s served with some great big chunks of delicious sourdough rye.

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The Marito doesn’t miss out, he starts with an Applewood smoked ocean trout, served with crème fraiche and capers. We are both pleasantly surprised by the generosity of the serve, and it has a lovely delicate flavour.

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He also has an eggplant parmigiana with burrata. It’s not done traditionally but with crumbed slices of eggplant and stacked, which give it some nice texture. The burrata is gorgeous and creamy. The non meat specials change regularly; I notice a week later they have a crab with squid ink and spaghettini and would have loved to try it.

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The Small People start with the sausage of the day, a cotechino. It has a good amount of spice and is really tasty though very rich and good to share.

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Then comes out the 1kg t-bone steak. Beautifully cooked, they demolish it, though they do let me try a little bit.

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On the side we try the potato gratin. The potato is sliced in paper thin slivers, and it’s creamy and buttery and delicious. We also have a green bean and radish salad; when we comment that someone has been a bit too heavy handed with the salt, they replace it with no fuss at all, a very good sign.

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There is no capacity for dessert after that meat-fest; the Small People are happy and on their birthday that’s all that matters.

LP’s Quality Meats, 16/12 Chippen St, Chippendale Ph 02 8399 0929
http://www.lpsqualitymeats.com

LP's Quality Meats Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Toque Time: the 2018 Good Food Guide Awards

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This year, the Good Food Guide Awards was a national affair, rather than a shindig in each city. Why? Apparently “frankly, it was the right time”.  (This may be corporate speak for “we needed to cut costs, it’s tough in newspaper land right now”.)  So inner city and regional were all combined, and Northern Territory even got  a look in! Must have been a very long night.

There were specific gongs for certain categories, and the full list of hats below. Vale Jeremy Strode, how very very sad.

Restaurant of the Year: Attica, Victoria
New Restaurant of the Year: Saint Peter, New South Wales
Chef of the Year: Daniel Puskas, Sixpenny, New South Wales
Santa Vittoria Regional Restaurant of the Year: The Agrarian Kitchen Eatery & Store, Tasmania Vittoria Coffee Legend Award: Jeremy Strode 1964-2017
Josephine Pignolet Young Chef of the Year: Kylie Millar, Attica, Victoria
Food For Good Award: Orana Foundation, South Australia
Bar of the Year: Arlechin, Victoria
Sommelier of the Year: Raul Moreno Yague, Osteria Ilaria, Victoria
Wine list of the Year: Aria Brisbane, Queensland

Three Hats

NEW SOUTH WALES VICTORIA QUEENSLAND
Quay Attica Urbane
Sepia Brae
Minamishima

Two Hats

NEW SOUTH WALES VICTORIA QUEENSLAND
Aria Cutler & Co. Aria Brisbane
Automata Dinner by Heston Blumenthal Esquire (down a hat)
Bennelong Estelle by Scott Pickett Gerard’s Bistro
Bentley Restaurant & Bar Ezard GOMA Restaurant
Biota Dining Fen (new entry) Stokehouse Q
Cirrus (new entry) Flower Drum Wasabi
Est. Grossi Florentino Upstairs
Ester Igni (new entry) SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Firedoor (up a hat) Kuro Kisume (new entry) Hentley Farm
Fleet Lake House Magill Estate Restaurant
Fred’s (new entry) Lume Restaurant Orana
Icebergs Dining  & Bar O.My (up a hat)
Lucio’s Provenance WESTERN AUSTRALIA
LuMi Dining Rockpool Bar & Grill Cullen Wines
Momofuku Seiobo Rosetta (up a hat) Vasse Felix
Monopole Saint Crispin
Mr. Wong Spice Temple TASMANIA
Muse Restaurant Ten Minutes by Tractor The Agrarian Kitchen Eatery & Store
Ormeggio at The Spit Vue de Monde (down a hat)
Oscillate Wildly Woodland House ACT
Pilu at Freshwater Aubergine
Porteno (re-entry) Ottoman Cuisine
Restaurant Hubert
Rockpool Bar & Grill
Saint Peter (new entry)
Sixpenny
Tetsuya’s
The Bridge Room (down a hat)

One hat

NEW SOUTH WALES VICTORIA QUEENSLAND
10 William St A La Grecque 1889 Enoteca
4Fourteen (new entry) Amaru ​Blackbird Bar & Grill
Acme Anchovy E’cco Bistro
Aki’s Atlas Dining (new hatter) Gauge
Bacco (new entry) Bacash Harrisons by Spencer Patrick
Baccomatto Osteria Bar Lourinha Homage
​Banksii (new entry) Bistro Guillaume Kiyomi
Beach Byron Bay (new entry) Cafe Di Stasio Madame Rouge (new entry)
Bellevue Captain Moonlite (new hatter) Mamasan Kitchen & Bar
Billy Kwong Catfish Moda
​Bistro Molines Cecconi’s Flinders Lane ​Montrachet
Bistro Officina (new entry) Centonove Noosa Waterfront Restaurant
​Bistro Rex (new entry) Coda Nu Nu
Bodega Copper Pot Seddon (new hatter) Otto
Buon Ricordo Cumulus Inc. Rick Shores (new entry)
Catalina Da Noi Rickys River Bar & Restaurant
Caveau Donovans Sake Restaurant & Bar
​China Doll Doot Doot Doot (new hatter) Social Eating House
Cho Cho San ​Elyros Spirit House
Clementine (new entry) Embla Tartufo
Continental Deli Bar Bistro ​Epocha The Euro
Cottage Point Inn French Saloon The Fish House (down a hat)
Da Orazio Pizza & Porchetta Highline at the Railway Hotel The Hats
​Darley’s Ides ​The Long Apron (down a hat)
Eschalot Il Bacaro The Peak (down a hat)
Felix ​Kakizaki (new hatter) The Survey Co.
Fratelli Paradiso ​Kappo The Tamarind
Glass Brasserie Kazuki’s The Wolfe
Hartsyard ​Lee Ho Fook
​Harvest (new entry) ​Ma Cave at Midnight Starling (new hatter) WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Izakaya Fujiyama Maha Billie H
Jade Temple (new entry) Marion Il Lido
Jonah’s Masons of Bendigo Lalla Rookh
Kepos Street Kitchen Matteo’s Liberte
Lolli Redini ​Montalto Long Chim
​Long Chim (new entry) MoVida, Lulu La Delizia
​LP’s Quality Meats Noir Rockpool Bar & Grill Perth
Margan Restaurant, Nora The Shorehouse
Ms. G’s Oakridge (new hatter) Voyager Estate
Muse Kitchen (down a hat) Osteria Ilaria (new hatter) Wildflower
Nomad Oter
Otto Paringa Estate SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Paper Bird (new entry) Philippe (new hatter) Africola
Paper Daisy (down a hat) Port Phillip Estate ​Appellation
Pearls on the Beach Public Inn Botanic Gardens Restaurant
Pendolino Ramblr (new hatter) FermentAsian
Queen Chow (new entry) San Telmo (new hatter) ​Osteria Oggi
Restaurant Mason ​Source Dining Press Food & Wine
​Rocker (new entry) Stefano’s (down a hat) Shobosho
Rosetta (new entry) Stokehouse (re-entry) The Currant Shed
Sagra ​Supernormal The Pot by Emma McCaskill
​Sake (Double Bay) (new entry) TarraWarra Estate (new hatter) ​The Summertown Aristologist
Sean’s Panaroma Tempura Hajime (new hatter)
Sokyo ​Terrace Restaurant TASMANIA
​Sotto Sopra (new entry) The Point Albert Park Aloft
​Spice Temple (down a hat) The Press Club (down a hat) Dier Makr
St. Isidore (new entry) ​The Recreation (new hatter) Fico
​Stanbuli ​The Town Mouse Franklin
Subo Tipo 00 Stillwater
​Sushi e Tonka Templo
The Antipodean (new entry) Trattoria Emilia (new entry)
The Apollo Tulip NORTHERN TERRITORY
The Bathers’ Pavilion Wilson & Market (new entry) Hanuman
The Dolphin Hotel
The Gantry ACT
The Paddington Chairman & Yip
The Restaurant Eightysix
The Stunned Mullet Italian & Sons
The Zin House Lilotang
Three Blue Ducks (re-entry) Monster Kitchen & Bar
Tonic Otis Dining Hall
Town Pulp Kitchen
Uccello Temporada
​Yellow

Toque Time (Melbourne) – The Age Good Food Guide 2017 Awards

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Fill the tank with petrol, people.  If you want to try The Age’s Restaurant of the Year, or sample the fare of the Chef of the Year, its an expensive Uber ride. Its happening out of the Melbourne metro with twenty eight regional restaurants awarded hats this year.  That’s not to say the city isn’t bustling, with Shannon Bennet’s Vue de Monde regaining its three toque status and Japanese fine diner Minimishima jumping one as well.  Plenty of newcomers in the one hat category, and Heston’s Dinner was a double toque debut. Moon Under Water, Bistro Vue, Da Noi, Huxtable, Movida Aqui, No 8 by John Lawson, Pure South, The Roving Marrow, and Kenzan all dropped from the list.

And the winners are…….

Restaurant of the Year: Brae, Birregurra
Best New Restaurant: Embla, Melbourne
Chef of the Year: Aaron Turner, Igni
Regional Restaurant of the Year: Igni, Geelong
Bar of the Year: Heartbreaker, Melbourne
Best Cheap Eat: Hem 27, Flemington
Café of the Year: Higher Ground, Melbourne

CITY

Three Hats
Attica, Minimishima (up a hat), Vue de Monde (up a hat)

Two Hats
Circa, Cutler & Co, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (new hatter), Estelle by Scott Pickett (new hatter), Ezard, Flower Drum, Grossi Florentino Upstairs, Lume (up a hat), Matteo’s, The Press Club, Rockpool Bar & Grill, Saint Crispin, Spice Temple, Woodland House

One Hat
Amaru (new hatter), Anchovy (new hatter), Bacash, Bar Lourinha (new hatter), Bistro Guillaume, Cafe Di Stasio, Cecconi’s Flinders Lane, Centonove, Coda, Cumulus Inc., Dandelion, Donovans, Easy Tiger Smith St, Elyros (new hatter), Embla (new hatter), Epocha, European, French Saloon (new hatter), The Grand, Highline at the Railway Hotel (new hatter), Ides (new hatter), Il Bacaro, Kappo, Lee Ho Fook (new hatter), Longrain, Maha, Marion (new hatter), Merricote, Mister Jennings, MoVida, Noir (new hatter), Nora (new hatter), O.My, Oter, Pei Modern, The Point Albert Park, Rosetta (down a hat), Sarti, Supernormal, Tipo 00, Tonka, The Town Mouse, Union Dining

REGIONAL

Three Hats
Brae, Birregurra

Two Hats
Fen, Port Fairy; Igni, Geelong; Lake House, Daylesford; Provenance, Beechworth; Royal Mail Hotel, Dunkeld; Stefano’s, Mildura; Ten Minutes by Tractor, Main Ridge

One Hat
A La Grecque, Aireys Inlet; Catfish, Ballarat; Eleonore’s, Yering; Ezard at Levantine Hill, Coldstream; Gladioli, Inverleigh; The Good Table, Castlemaine; Healesville Hotel, Healesville; Kazuki’s, Daylesford; Masons of Bendigo, Bendigo; Montalto, Red Hill South; Paringa Estate, Red Hill South; Patricia’s Table, Milawa; Pickled Pig, Warrnambool; Port Phillip Estate, Red Hill South; Public Inn, Castlemaine; Simones, Bright; Source Dining, Kyneton; Tani Eat & Drink, Bright; Terrace Restaurant, Wahgunyah; Tulip, Geelong

Toque Time (Sydney) – SMH Good Food Guide 2017 Awards

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With Spring comes restaurant award season and all the angst that goes with it.   It seems a little less dramatic this year with the three hat list remaining unchanged bar the disappearance of Rockpool, which, if you haven’t heard, just re-opened as Eleven Bridge (apparently to avoid diners getting confused). Newcomers Hubert, Automata and regional restaurant Paper Daisy made strong two hat debuts, and Hartsyard regained the gone toque from the previous year.  Pop up Café Paci finished its popping and is gone from the list, Mark Best threw in the towel at Marque, and MoVida decided to close its doors.   Balla, Bistro Moncur, Three Blue Ducks, Longrain, and Osteria di Russo and Russo also lost a prized toque.

And the winners are……

Restaurant of the Year: Quay
Chef of the Year: Federico Zanellato (LuMi Bar & Dining)
Best New Restaurant: Restaurant Hubert
Regional Restaurant of the Year: Paper Daisy
Café of the Year: Paramount Coffee Project
Best Bar Food: Bar Brosé
Wine List of the Year: Monopole
Bar of the Year: Continental Deli Bar & Bistro
Best Cheap Eat: Bovine & Swine Barbecue Co

CITY
Three Hats
The Bridge Room, Quay, Sepia

Two Hats
ARIA, Automata (new hatter), Bennelong, Bentley Restaurant & Bar, Est., Ester, Guillaume, Icebergs Dining Room & Bar, Lucio’s Italian Restaurant, LuMi Bar & Dining, Momofuku Seiobo, Monopole (up a hat), Mr. Wong, Ormeggio at The Spit, Oscillate Wildly, Pilu at Freshwater, Restaurant Hubert (new hatter), Rockpool Bar & Grill, Sixpenny, Spice Temple, Tetsuya’s

One Hat
10 William St, ACME, Ajo, Aki’s Indian Restaurant, The Apollo, Baccomatto Osteria, Bar Brose, The Bathers’ Pavilion, The Bellevue (new hatter), Berowra Waters Inn (down a hat), Billy Kwong, Bistrode CBD, The Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay, Bodega, Buon Ricordo, Catalina, China Doll, Cho Cho San, Continental Deli Bar & Bistro (new hatter), Cottage Point Inn (down a hat), Da Orazio Pizza + Porchetta (new hatter), The Dolphin Hotel Dining Room (new hatter), Felix, Firedoor, Fratelli Paradiso, The Gantry, Gastro Park, glass brasserie, Hartsyard (up a hat), Izakaya Fujiyama, Jonah’s, Kepos & Co, Kepos Street Kitchen, LP’s Quality Meats, Master, Mercado (new hatter), Ms.G’s, Nomad, One Ford Street, Otto Ristorante, The Paddington, Porteño, The Restaurant Pendolino, Sagra (new hatter), Sean’s Panaroma, Sokyo, Stanbuli, Sushi-e, Uccello, Vini, Yellow

REGIONAL

Two Hats
Aubergine, Biota Dining, Fleet, Muse Restaurant, Paper Daisy (new hatter)

One Hat
Bistro Molines, Caveau, Courgette, Darley’s Restaurant, eightysix, Eschalot Restaurant, Fins, Lanterne Rooms, Lilotang, Lolli Redini, Margan, Monster Kitchen & Bar, Muse Kitchen, Ottoman Cuisine, Pearls on the Beach, Pialligo Estate Farmhouse, Restaurant Como, Restaurant Mason, Rick Stein at Bannisters, St Isidore, The Stunned Mullet, Subo, Temporada, Tonic, Town Restaurant & Cafe, Waters Edge, Zanzibar, The Zin House

http://www.goodfood.com.au/

 

Firedoor, Surry Hills

You’re in a bit of trouble at Firedoor if you don’t like a hint (or a whack) of smokiness in your food. In the electricity-less kitchen, everything is cooked on fire, and the taste is distinct.   One of the hot openings of 2015, in the early days it was near impossible to score a table, and we’re glad we finally get to road test it and see if it is worthy of its one hat. Our friendly waitress gives us the menus and suggests an appropriate number of dishes to order between four – the menu is designed to share – and leaves us to ponder.

We start off with some bread. Big, thick slabs of bread with butter. Sprinkled on top of the butter is smoked salt – the smoke journey begins – and I love it. They should sell jars of that salt. The bread also comes in handy for mopping up some of the lovely sauces and juices that come with subsequent dishes.

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The first handful of dishes arrive quickly, almost too quickly, and the table gets crowded.

A simple dish of asparagus comes with a delicious accompaniment of mussel sauce

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It’s followed by one of the table favourites, these little school prawns, done with a nice hint of chilli and garlic shoots. Loved this dish and would gladly have it again

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The ricotta is pretty to look at and yes, the smoke is there, but I think I’d rather have my regular serve of Paesanella.

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We move onto the strawberry clams. It’s a pretty small serve for $48, and I also find them a little overcooked and chewy

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The squid with ink and macadamia doesn’t blow me away either, but the celery is refreshing

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We’re back on track with this whiting with some chargrilled zucchini. Beautifully cooked, juicy fish with delicate vegetables.

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So too does the Jurassic quail get a big tick, served with toasted spelt with caper raisin.

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We have to wait a very long time for the lamb, and the waitress is apologetic, but it turns out to be worth the wait. This photo is of a half eaten dish, oops.   Like the whiting, it is expertly cooked and a definite crowd pleaser.

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But the one thing about Firedoor is that you will get sticker shock, the bill does add up very quickly, especially when drinks come into the equation. Steer clear of the steak – the 500g wagyu rib comes in at $89 and the 500g dray aged rib at $139. Now given how well they cooked our other meat dishes, I’m sure that these would be nicely done, but the prices seem a little excessive, even though they are designed to share. The chef’s menu $85 banquet may be the best way to go.

Firedoor, 1a/23-33 Mary St, Surry Hills, Ph (02) 8204 0800
http://www.firedoor.com.au

Firedoor Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

Toque Time (Melbourne) – The Age Good Food Guide 2016 Awards

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It’s been a big year for Melbourne on the food front. This year saw Heston announce with much fanfare he was temporarily setting up shop there, cheaters scammed tables, and the chosen few shared their photos of the mad hatter’s tea party. The rest of us will need to fly to the UK. David Blackmore fought the bureaucrats with the help of Neil Perry to try and stay open; Sydney favourites Messina and Din Tai Fung headed south, opening their first venues; while Chris Lucas from Chin Chin and George Calombaris both announced they were heading north to expand their respective empires. By the way I recently tried the winner of Best New Restaurant, and there is some good strong Italian going on there, to die for burrata!

Following hot on the heels of the Sydney awards, the Melbourne winners are…..

Best Bar – Romeo Lane
Best Bar Food – Bar Clarine
Best Cheap Eat – Delhi Streets
Restaurant of the Year – Minimishima
Best New Restaurant – Tipo 00
People’s Choice Award – Red Spice Road

Melbourne Metro
Three hats
Attica

Two hats
Circa (up a hat), Cutler & Co, Ezard, Flower Drum (down a hat), Grossi Florentino Upstairs, Matteo’s, Minimishima (new hatter), Moon Under Water (up a hat), The Press Club (up a hat), Rockpool Bar & Grill, Rosetta, Saint Crispin, Spice Temple, Vue de Monde (down a hat), Woodland House (up a hat)

One Hat
Bacash, Bistro Guillaume, Bistro Vue, Café di Stasio (down a hat), Cecconi’s Flinders Lane, Centonove, Coda, Cumulus Inc, Da Noi, Dandelion, Donovans, Easy Tiger Smith St, Epocha, European, The Grand, Huxtable, Il Bacaro, Kappo (new hatter), Kenzan, Longrain, Lume (new hatter), Maha, Merricote, Mister Jennings (new hatter), MoVida Aqui, No 8 by John Lawson, O.My (new hatter), Pei Modern, The Point Albert Park, Pure South, The Roving Marrow, Sarti, Stokehouse City, Supernormal, Tipo 00 (new hatter), Tonka, The Town Mouse, Union Dining

Lost hats – Becco, Estelle, Hare & Grace, MoVida, Noir, Shoya, The Roving Marrow, Tempura Hajimi, Town Hall Hotel, Yu U

Regional Winners
Three Hats
Brae

Two Hats
Gladioli, Lake House, Provenance, Royal Mail Hotel, Ten Minutes by Tractor

One Hat
A La Grecque, Broadgauge, Catfish, Chris’s Beacon Point, Eleonore’s, The Good Table, Kazuki’s, Masons of Bendigo, Montalto, Paringa Estate, Port Phillip Estate, Public Inn, Simones Restaurant, Source Dining, The Stag, Stefano’s, Tani Eat & Drink, Terminus at Flinders Hotel, Terrace Restaurant, Tulip

ACME, Rushcutters Bay

When I heard there was a new restaurant called ACME, I thought that maybe the owner was a fan of  the Road Runner and Wile E Coyote cartoons I used to watch when I was little with its ACME brand explosives that never worked. But no, the name was born from the four initials of the four partners, with M being the head chef, Mitch Orr. I met him at the Young Gun’s dinner series, and he seems like quite a character, which is reflected in some of the left of centre food coming over the pass. Yes there is pasta made in beautiful Italian tradition – which has no doubt been a big contributor to the hat earned in the recent awards – but it may be paired with a little Filippino, Korean or Japanese flavours.

At first glance the pricing seems reasonable – snacks and entrees go from $5 to $24, and the pasta dishes from $12 to $24, but be warned the serves are small. If you’re hungry you may need entrée, main, dessert and then some, so it is not as good value as you would think, or may require the Macca’s pitstop on the way home. Service though, is top notch and the staff are warm and friendly. Out for a team dinner, we had a group banquet for $60 (not including dessert) in the lovely space downstairs which can be used for private dining, which meant we got to try quite a few dishes.

We start off with the baloney sandwich. It isn’t something I would have automatically ordered, and I’m very glad they chose it for us. A soft fluffy roll, delicious mortadella, and some tangy relishACME (1)

The pippis too are nicely done and not tampered with too much, a little bit of lime and pepper, lovelyACME (4)

The following two vegetable courses though leave me a little uninspired. Fried parsnip is just ok though the mayo has a bit of a kickACME (2)

The pencil leeks are chewy, but the seaweed butter is decadent, would have been nice to have some crusty bread to spread it onACME (3)

In between as a bit of a cleanser is a combination of blood orange, pomelo and mascarpone. Its not a combination that works for me.ACME (8)

But we get a comeback with the pasta dishes which shine. The wonderfully thin linguine and given flavour and texture with burnt chilli and black garlic, and it’s a table favourite.ACME (5)

So too is the maltagliati (that’s “badly cut” for the non Italians) with rabbit and pistachio, silky pasta and nicely braised rabbitACME (7)

The only pasta dish I’m ambivalent about is calamari with Korean Bolognese, it falls in the “interesting” category and I’m not quite sure if I like it.ACME (6)

But the macaroni with pigs head and egg yolk proves another winner.ACME (9)

ACME, 60 Bayswater Road, Rushcutters Bay, Ph (02) 8068 0932
http://weareacme.com.au/
ACME Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato