I had heard good things about Devon in Surry Hills for the longest time, but never managed to get there. But now I don’t have to, as they have – wisely! – crossed the bridge. North Sydney, for a long time a concrete jungle ghost town outside of 9 to 5, is slowly but surely coming to life with the spate of new apartments, and places like Devon are well placed for this. Unlike Surry Hills, the northern sibling is also open for dinner.
On a few visits, I’ve made my way through tasting a fair bit of the unique breakfast/brunch menu – with help from the Marito, Small People, and friends, I didn’t eat this all myself! There are a lot of bold and gutsy flavours, not much shyness here. And I love the generosity of their serves, none of this teensy tiny business. A breakfast here accompanied by one of their good cups of coffee and I’m full for the day,
The Marito was a big fan of the Devon Fish Cake and had it two visits in a row – the cake was salmon and potato with a nice crisp to the outside, served with a poached egg, a full bodied yuzu aioli and a watercress and cabbage slaw.
Salmon is on show again with “Breakfast with the Sakumas” (named after the politician I’m guessing?) – salmon grilled with miso, an eel croquette, a 63 degree egg, radish and kewpi mayonnaise. Delicious but very rich.
The Croissant St Denis is pure morning indulgence. An omelette with lobster, prawn and caviar, served with a very punchy seafood bisque. Soak up the bisque with the flaky, buttery croissant and you’ll have a very good day indeed.
Get some pork on your fork with Piggy Banc – free range pork belly, pork + fennel sausage, hasselback potato, roast fennel and peas
If it’s something of the more “straight up” variety you’re after, that is not an issue. Good old scrambled and fried eggs are on offer, and they are huge – they even satisfied my bottomless pit Small People.
Plenty to choose from on the lunch menu too. I love the playful take on Italian in the name of “ragu alla Sichuanese” – coriander tagliolini, chilli mince pork, peanuts, burrata, slow cooked egg. Silky noodles with a good kick.
For something lighter try the poke bowl, and again a very generous serve. Sashimi king salmon, brown rice, avocado (get your mortgage in order), salmon caviar, seaweed, edamame beans, cucumber and kale
Devon Café North Sydney, 36 Blue St North Sydney. Ph 02 8971 0377