With 13 metre high walls of it surrounding the restaurant, Glass couldn’t be called anything else. Eight years in, and the room still looks impressive and imposing – it is certainly one of the CBD’s better dining rooms, and I’ve visited several times. As part of the Sydney Hilton, it is a bit of a ‘something for everyone’ hotel menu, with a little Asian, French, Italian, ModOz, steaks and fresh seafood. But where many places fail with this approach, Glass, for the most part, pulls it off, with Luke Mangan’s clearly versatile kitchen team and attentive staff. We are there for an early dinner (6pm) with our children in tow; they are obviously used to families given the large number of hotel guests that dine there, and the children are warmly welcomed which always speaks volumes to me about a venue.
We start off with a little tapas, a stuffed zucchini flower with corn, preserved lemon, and salsa verde – absolutely delicious – and some duck croquettas. The latter don’t quite hit the mark and the flavour of duck gets a bit lost.
Next is the signature dish which I’ve had a few times on my several visits over the years – the feather light omelette with crab meat, enoki mushroom and herb salad. After dividing it between two of us, a lovely rich miso broth is poured. Really lovely dish.
The snapper fillet, tempura prawns with Thai salad and spicy broth follows. The prawns are enormous, but I would describe these more as a batter than tempura, and I would have preferred a different style of prawn. The salad on the other hand, is texturally delightful and I could have eaten a whole dish of it; with the fish and the broth it’s a great combination.
The “simply prepared fish” on that particular day is salmon, accompanied by asparagus, watercress and an excellent tomato chutney. As they say endlessly on those reality TV cooking shows with simple food, “there’s nowhere to hide”, and there isn’t any need to with food this fresh. But it also looks very healthy, so we need to balance it out with some (undoubtedly low fat) silky smooth truffle mash.
For desert, we opt for the toffee soufflé with pecan butter ice-cream. The soufflé doesn’t win me over, with the toffee flavour being rather subtle, but that ice cream – could I please get a litre or two to takeaway? It’s devine.
So yes there are some minor execution flaws, and it’s an expensive night out, but overall Glass remains a class act. Here’s to the next eight years.
Glass Brasserie, 2/488 George St, Sydney, Ph: (02) 9265 6068