I’m thinking that if a restauarant is Three Michelin star, then, as we’d expect from a Three Hatter in Sydney, it has to be the whole package – unbelievable service, a beautiful room, and sublime food. Can a Chinese restaurant, often associated with a casual and cheap meal, deliver the package? For Australian readers, I suppose the benchmark has to be Melbourne’s Flower Drum.
The view is indeed beautiful looking out across the river, but the restaurant space itself is nothing memorable. There is a good amount of space between tables so you don’t have to hear your neighbour’s conversation (in Hong Kong this is probably priceless given the tiny apartments they live in!) As I sit down the waiters provide a little stand for my handbag, so it doesn’t have to sit on the floor, which is a nice touch. And the service, while pleasant, does not have the finesse and extravagance of Flower Drum.
On the menu that night:
Amuse bouche (not sure what the Chinese equivalent of that is so going with French!) of fried bean curd – surprisingly delicious
Wok-Fried Prawns with Fresh Crab Meat in Spicy Sauce. This is a fantastic dish – flavoursome rather than knock-you-out heat, tender crab, large prawns; I wanted to sabotage the lazy Susan so it couldn’t reach anyone else. Also, see the little condiments tray in the background – they contain sauces which are certainly Michelin-worthy, especially the XO sauce (in fact it has received its own award!).
Roasted Eggplant and Scallops in Spicy Plum Sauce. The eggplant was slightly undercooked making it chewy, and the sauce was a little on the sweet side.
Sautéed Duck with Hazelnut and Ginger. I was looking forward to this, and it was really disappointing. The duck was tough and the flavour was nothing special.
But the Wok-Fried Lamb Shin with chilli was fantastic, well flavoured and tender.
Next, Stir-Fried Minced Vegetables with Nuts in Lettuce Wraps, which was also delicious and came with a great seafood sauce to put on top.
Then Lung King Heen Lobster Fried Rice with Seafood – awesome fried rice.
Then a noodle type dish – wok-Fried Rice Rolls in X.O. Chilli Sauce. We reach another high in this dish, reminds me of top notch hawker style noodles with a great hit of chilli.
For dessert, its Chilled Mango and Sago Cream with Pomelo. All this really tasted like was pureed mango. That didn’t stop it from being delicious, but if you’re after sago texture and flavour there’s not much of it.
So was this what I would perceive as a Three Michelin Star – probably not (maybe two!!), but it is still damn good Chinese with a spectacular harbour view.
Lung King Heen, Four Seasons Hong Kong, Ph (852) 3196-8888